12 March 2010
	EATING OUT - CAPE Showbiz on a plate By Linda Stafford

If you have a few bucks to blow and even a smidgeon of the soul of Escoffier, eating out in Cape Town is becoming an agony of choice. And the arrival of the stage-set-like Vanilla in the exciting new Cape Quarter Extension in De Waterkant has not made things any easier. The silver-and-cerise restaurant is on two levels, linked by a solid glass staircase. Inside, on one level, is a vanilla-coloured baby grand piano; outside, tables spill onto a cobbled courtyard open to the sky, a feature designed to give the centre a village vibe. Restaurant as theatre - Vanilla interior Though new, it's the kind of place that makes even nobodies - not that you know any - feel fabulously somebody. Vanilla is the R7m baby of Nigel Newhouse, who also owns Tuscany Beach restaurant in Camps Bay. And since Franschhoek's Matthew Gordon (Haute Cabrière Cellar Restaurant, French Connection) was consultant chef, it has an intelligent, interestingly varied menu and dishes are generally well realised on the plate. A girls' shared lunch of caramelised onion, goat cheese and chive tart with rocket pesto, balsamic glaze and baby salad leaves (R60) and Caprese salad (R65) was hard to fault. The tart was crisp-crusted and generous; the tomato, buffalo mozzarella, avocado and basil salad updated with sweet, earthy beetroot, goat cheese and tangy lemon dressing. Other tempting midday meals include Alaskan king crab bruschetta (R155) with avocado, herb mayonnaise and salmon trout caviar (R155), various cuts of Chalmar beef and English-style fish and chips (R90). Char-grilled fillet of beef - A cut above Dinner a day or so later had only one seriously duff note: the crayfish tail adorning an unusual yet delicious salad of warm lyonnaise potato and an apple and fennel mixture in a lime and dill emulsion (R105) was cold. The menu's billing it as steamed had led me to believe it would be warm; and it neither smelt nor tasted fresh. For the rest, my date's crisp salt-andpepper Patagonian calamari with citrus aioli (R60) was simple but sensational; and her main course of rack of Karoo lamb with fresh pea and rosemary risotto and, of course, a touch of essence of vanilla bean (R165) was good, if a little underdone. It was I who hit the jackpot, though: roast pork belly with a sweet chilli-zapped, cold Asian noodle salad that cut through the richness of the meat beautifully. It was a dish I'd return for, though other attractions include a starter of seared king scallops with a warm crème fraîche and dill sauce (R105) and a main of slow-cooked veal shoulder (R150). VANILLA Address: Shop 017, The Square, Cape Quarter Extension, De Waterkant Tel: (021) 421-1391 Open Monday-Sunday for brunch, lunch and dinner Go to: www.vanillarestaurant.com There's something for everyone at Vanilla - terrific cocktails, a private dining room, you name it. But what's really groundbreaking is that it uses the latest wine-preservation technology - Verre de Vin - so it can serve most wines by the glass. This ensures open bottles of still and sparkling wine keep their flavour, bouquet and sparkle for up to three weeks. Though I didn't find the service particularly adroit - a common gripe in laid-back Cape Town - I loved the wham-bam-glam of the place. You will, too.